Blade sharppening - REO Property Preservation Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Blade sharppening

Ok everybody , just wondering if you all sharpen your blades yourself or do you have someone else do it ? I have never done it cause I always thought it needed to have a certain angel on the blade and since I have only a bench grinder with nothing to tell me what angel to go by its all guess work. I have used different shops in the past some use hand grinders others grind without taking the blades off the mower, I have looked into getting a better grinder on line that is specifically for this type of need and they run from 200 - 500 bucks. My average cost will range from 5 - 12 bucks a blade depending on where I take them. But I am not impressed at all with any of the work I have seen. The balance of the blades I know is important cause you don't want to ruin any bearings so is grinding yourself no big deal and balancing blade on a nail ok to go with or would you invest in a grinder that has the angels that you can set the way to go. Any comments appreciated
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 08:01 AM
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Just use your bench grinder, you will get the feel of it. I use mine. You want the same angle you get when they are brand new, just sharper.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 10:46 AM
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I've done both a bench grinder and an angle grinder. I've also had blades that were neglected for too long done by someone else. I get them sharpened for $4 a blade. Balance is important, not sure how anyone can do a decent job sharpening and balancing while still on the mower

Also, from my engineering days at Deere, if anyone tells you that the edge must be razor sharp, that's not the best advice. The cutting edge should be a tad blunt, no more than the thickness of a dime. It will last much longer.



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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 10:56 PM
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I normally do them myself with a 4' hand grinder. I buy the discs at tractor supply in a ten pack for $10 when they are on sale.

I have at least three or four sets of blades for each mower. That way I can swap them in a few minutes when I am in a hurry. Although it can take a bit of time to sharpen 30 blades when they are all dull. But it is worth it when you run over something and need to change them in the middle of the day.

I recommend buying a metal blade balancer. I like them better than the plastic ones and they are more accurate than a nail. I think I paid less than $10 for the one I have.

A really stout bench mounted vice is also a must. Being able to lock the blade in place and know it will not move helps.

Also, wear a good pair of leather gloves. The blades get really hot and the gloves will give you time to drop them without burning your hand when you forget friction causes heat.

When I am really slammed and do not have time to do this myself I drop off my mower at the shop I deal with while I do something that does not require a mower. For $20 they will take them off, sharpen them and put them back on. I also will do this sometimes if they are worn out. They will install the new ones for $10.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRADSConst View Post

Also, from my engineering days at Deere, if anyone tells you that the edge must be razor sharp, that's not the best advice. The cutting edge should be a tad blunt, no more than the thickness of a dime. It will last much longer.



That might be OK for a homeowner, they might even recommend that for commercial, I really would hate to use thickness of a dime blade front edge.
Mine get to that by the end of the day. I can tell deteriorated cutting performance from the way I started the day.
I doubt you'd want to shave with mine but they are sharper than the thickness of a dime.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 09:03 PM
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That might be OK for a homeowner, they might even recommend that for commercial, I really would hate to use thickness of a dime blade front edge.
Mine get to that by the end of the day. I can tell deteriorated cutting performance from the way I started the day.
I doubt you'd want to shave with mine but they are sharper than the thickness of a dime.
I found out with my g6 mulching blades that s big difference between the traditional "blunt" sharp to a "razor" sharp that I get from wet sand if my belt sander. So much so that I purchased extra sets to swap out minimum once a week.

I was told one to tell if you need to sharpen your blade if the tips of the grass are "brown".
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 09:06 PM
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I only use a grinder to remove any "dents" from the edge. I found a bench mounted belt sander is easier to keep the "proper" angle
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by npm View Post
I found out with my g6 mulching blades that s big difference between the traditional "blunt" sharp to a "razor" sharp that I get from wet sand if my belt sander. So much so that I purchased extra sets to swap out minimum once a week.

I was told one to tell if you need to sharpen your blade if the tips of the grass are "brown".



I used sharp blades every day! Those G6s do not like to cut right even a little bit dull.


The tips of the grass will always have a very small brown spot.
This is not noticeable unless you really get down and look.
Where problems come from is when the brown spot becomes a brown tear. I've seen tips that have been mowed so dull the brown is an inch or two.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 10:12 PM
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 10:23 PM
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Myself and mr montana both have one of these.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bradley-Lawn...item35d65d620e

Professionals are people who can do their job when they don't feel like it.
Amateurs are people that can't do their job even when they do feel like it.
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