Winterization Equipment & Tips - REO Property Preservation Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Winterization Equipment & Tips

I'm using a general title to help with future searches. If you do any preservation work at all, this time of year should see your inbox filling with winterization orders. For the newbs and the folks wanting a little guidance, I'm looking for the experienced crews to input some information about what they are using, ie, compressors, time saving tips, photo technique, helps, etc.
Lot of PP people new to this biz need a little more guidance than just what the regional gives them. I'm not starting this thread for contractors with no experience to jump in and get their feet wet. Spend time with a journeyman first. Anything from blowing out radiators, draining wet heat systems, minimum cfms needed, etc. Lets see where this goes and maybe some people can use it for reference down the road.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-14-2014, 06:46 PM
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Put a rock on it
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-15-2014, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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Use this-


instead of this-
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-15-2014, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
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We are coming across a lot of properties this fall, as we do every year, that have been previously winterized by national/regional subs and have partially filled water tanks, residual water left in lines, etc.

I just left a property that had been signed off by a competitor during the summer of 13. He is a decent enough guy who uses hobby equipment. He thinks that if all the national is going to pay is $70, then he isn't upgrading his tools. The supply lines to the 2nd floor bath ruptured across a 20' horizontal run over the dining room. The home inspector was there watching water rain from the textured plaster ceiling. We handled the repairs and billed the going rate thru the seller's agent. This guy could have bought some really top end equipment for what he is about to pay for the damages to this property. A walmart compressor with out sufficient cfms to quickly pressurize the water heater/system and blow lines means the sub is wasting time and risking a big payback.
Check your compressor specs and make sure yours is up to the task. If you are billing what you are worth, they will pay for themselves in a day.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-15-2014, 08:32 AM
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I can't see how anyone can use a compressor with less than 7.5 cfm at 90#. The only thing we use is a heavy duty wheelbarrow type gas compressor. We have an extra 10 gal. remote pressure tank if the hot water heater is gone. We have all kinds of adapters with "shark bite" type end to garden hose adapter (3/4", 1/2" ect.) and a hand full of shark bite end caps to plug lines to attempt to pressurize local lines that are missing faucets or fixtures.
Wet wints are the ones that are the hard jobs and they take an experience boilermaker. I will only attempt to drain a VERY simple system and won't do anything that has in-floor heat, those I bid to have a 3rd party professional. Too much can go wrong and these systems are expensive. Same with radiators if it's a steam system it's not that bad if it's pumped water it take forever to drain as it's gravity that get the water out. Better know what your doing.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-16-2014, 05:47 AM
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This is why I say "you better know what your doing"
http://www.preservationtalk.com/showthread.php?t=3916
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-16-2014, 10:39 AM
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my wint eqt

I have a 100 ftself winding hose reel, bought a system to run from my motor to my air compressor kinda like a generator but runs off my fuse box in my truck .. I do use plug ins when i can, but having the self winding reel helps. i can blow a house out in 15-mins or so i just tug it and let it reel up while i grab all my otherstuff... only thing i have to carry in is a hose and the air attachments
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-16-2014, 11:18 PM
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Make sure you have plenty of air.

Be sure and do a stand alone test and print your own stickers with a good disclaimer, also include this disclaimer or definition of the object and limits of the winterization procedure on any report, or checklist or at least in the comment section. I stole mine from LPS stickers. One thing we often loose sight of is: The cause of freeze damage is not heating the building, it is not the winterization.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-20-2014, 07:30 AM
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Remove aerators and close toilet valves prior to pressurizing the system. Also remove shower heads, cap and pressure test. Cap and pressure test frost free outdoor hose spigots. I see many freeze damaged frost free spigots, usually due to improper installation or leaving the hose connected over winter.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-20-2014, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNP&P View Post
I see many freeze damaged frost free spigots, usually due to improper installation or leaving the hose connected over winter.
Wonder how many guys are driving away from a property and only then realize they never opened the outside faucet?
Also make sure to check garages and outbuildings. We have had several that run supply lines from the house to the garage for wet sinks, toilets, etc.
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