What type of compressor are you using for wints??? - REO Property Preservation Forum
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-25-2012, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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What type of compressor are you using for wints???

Just curious if some of the stuff i'm seeing around here is happening around the country. Are you using gas or electric and why? How many gallons?? How many CFM?? After a few responses i will post my thoughts.......
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-25-2012, 10:37 PM
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I have gas and electric, big and small but my favorite is a little makita with the big bore piston.
post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-25-2012, 10:45 PM
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The more CFM your compressor turns the better of a job it'll do.

Very important in colder areas that get a lot of cold.
Possibly less important in not so cold areas if not all the water is gotten out of the lines.
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPWY
The more CFM your compressor turns the better of a job it'll do.
I will agree the more CFM the better. However most of my winterizations are completed during the initial secure so time is not an issue as I pressurize while doing other tasks. With that being said I use my 6 gallon pancake electric compressor because itís small and lite weight. It can also run on my small Honda generator if no power is available so it makes it very user friendly to tote around and takes up less space in the truck. While the more CFM is better for good long blasts of air to remove the water, if your filling the hot water tank up with air during the winterization this becomes a giant holding tank for the air and basically eliminates the need for the big CFM compressor. If Iím only there to complete a winterization, then this compressor can be on the slow side but it does the job just fine. Just my thoughts, but you know what they say. Opinion's are like Butt holes, everyone's got one and they all stink.
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 03:21 AM
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I have the max power lite 400 and it's all you ever need. I can run 3 framing guns at the same time, a whole bunch of finish guns and with the inverter it will run on small generator or really bad commercial power. Yes it's pricey but it works in 100 degree or 5 degree temps and as long as you don't park it in a puddle it's built to run forever
post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robs660
I have the max power lite 400 and it's all you ever need. I can run 3 framing guns at the same time, a whole bunch of finish guns and with the inverter it will run on small generator or really bad commercial power. Yes it's pricey but it works in 100 degree or 5 degree temps and as long as you don't park it in a puddle it's built to run forever



Thats too small and slow for what we're talking about here.

PSI to run framing nailers versus the CFM needed to properly blow plumbing line are two different animals.

Heres an example of what I run (different brand).
And it'll run below 0. Long as the heat is on in the house so the plumbing isn't froze you're good to go.



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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 07:04 AM
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I try to run 2 compressors when doing a wint. Rather than carry a generator and compressor separately, I carry a gen/compressor combo that runs on gas. The generator is 10K output, but the compressor output is only 3.4cfm @ 90psi, so I then plug in my Rigid 4.4cfm @ 90psi and run it as well.
Typically I will run one hose to the water heater (after it's drained of course), and another right to the main branch line....blow from the bottom up. Or sometimes rather than the water heater I will go through the washing machine bibs if they are more conveniently located.
I know many "training resources" recommend you run from the top down, but I simply find this asinine when blowing lines. You can't effectively charge the system through a faucet...not to mention it just takes too dang long.
post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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OK, here's my take. As mentioned above, opinions are like azzholes but i have quite a bit of experience here. This will be a two fold discussion. CFM and pressure. I run one of these:


I have used one from the start as i want to get in and get out NOW not 2 hours from now. I have picked 2 of them up new at local pawn shops for $400 each. It sits in the bed of my truck and i carry 200' of hose. It pushes 12.4 CFM @ 100psi. I regulate it down to 60 PSI. FWIW, 35 psi is what everyone recommends and that is worthless. Most wells and city pressures are around 60 psi.

Just the other night i thawed a house. Found one break that i would not have located with a little electric compressor as the pipe was wide open in a wall and hardly made a sound with 12.4 CFM pushing through it, fixed it and went on to do my pressure test. Charged system to 60 psi and went about other work. Took a look a few minutes later and the gauge was down to 40 PSI. Got a leak somewhere! Finished up packing my heaters and tools and went back down in the basement. Still at 40 PSI! Charged it up to 60 PSI again and could watch the gauge drop to 40 in a few minutes and stay at 40. Now if i would have done a 35 PSI pressure check as required, who would have been liable for the leak when the well was kicked back on pushing 60 PSI??????????? Yup ME! Something for y'all using baby compressors to think about.

I have a rigid twin tank electric and to charge a house to 60 PSI would take 20 minutes! I do it in 5 minutes.I know a company running around up here using one of these:


I would venture to guess nearly half of their houses i get on the REO side have some sort of freeze damage even though they have a passed pressure test on file. :whistling:whistling

Oh, during sprinkler wint season i hook both of mine in series to blow sprinkler lines. Works great!


FWIW, the most common freeze damage i find is an expensive one. Frozen shower valves. Little compressors don't have enough UMPF to push out water in 32" of stand pipe on top of the valve. The water settles back on top of the valve and busts it. Most people are in too much of a rush to remember to open the shower valve up after the pressure test to let any existing water out into the horizontal plumbing.......
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robs660
I have the max power lite 400 and it's all you ever need. I can run 3 framing guns at the same time, a whole bunch of finish guns and with the inverter it will run on small generator or really bad commercial power. Yes it's pricey but it works in 100 degree or 5 degree temps and as long as you don't park it in a puddle it's built to run forever
YOU WIN!
That thing is arguably the best portable air compressor known to man!
BPWY, do some research on the Max compressor, you'll find that it will blow away our compressors, combined!

I only use gas powered "wheelbarrow" type compressors (w/ Honda motors), 100% synthetic Amsoil in pumps & motors. They always start and work, 1st or 2nd pull, regardless of tempature (used one at 20 below to pressure test a winterized house in eastern Montana (West Dakota).
Flexeel air hose is all you'll find on my truck as well (250' of it).
post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mt4closure
YOU WIN!
That thing is arguably the best portable air compressor known to man!

I only use gas powered "wheelbarrow" type compressors (w/ Honda motors).

It damn well better be good for the price of 2 BRAND NEW gas powered compressors!!!!!
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