As we all know winterization season is in full swing. And also as we all know the best client's for P & P are REO brokers. Every year I complete wints. for brokers for a decent allowable such as $150.00 for dry wints. and up wards of $ 375.00 for radiant heat systems. I have spoken to licensed plumbers who will not even consider anything under $300.00 depending on heating system and number of bathrooms !. So I ask, knowing that the REO broker is dealing directly with the lender who approves $150.00 for a dry winterization how do we even consider the ridiculous price all the nationals pay ? MCS has just put into place a RFP which lowers the allowable to $90.00 for a dry wint. Also a couple of years ago MCS came up with the " partial winterization " which is defined as plumbing damage/system will not hold pressure with the allowable decreased by 50 % across the board, $45.00 less the bribe ( discount). I protested over and over again but of course to no avail so I no longer complete orders for the seasonal dept. of MCS. Considering the $ 150.00 dynamic in place for REO brokers it is in your face that nationals invoice the lender for at least this amount. I realize the HUD allowable is $100.00 for dry wints. but also realize HUD allowables are just guild lines.

I charge $350 for winterizations. Doesn't matter if the system hold pressure or not, dry, radiant, steam, whatever. In the real world of REO (not working for nationals) the banks don't care what kind of system it is, they pay the same. Just like everything else in this business, tiered pricing for winterizations is something made up by the nationals to take more of YOUR money. They charge their clients the max charge regardless of what they pay you.

...and standing for the price like bigdaddy is, is the only way to get your number. If you can't get it, walk away. There is no way I'll ever do a winterization for $50 that they want to guarantee. No way. At some point, someone will have to deal with the fact that 4 or 5 different companies have their hand in the bowl before it ever gets to the person actually doing the work. If they want someone who is actually competent in the craft they are doing, they will pay for it. If they want to roll the dice and have some dude with a $100 air compressor and no gauges do it- that's fine. It's America, and good or bad, they have the right to do that, just don't expect me to be the one who does it for them.

Just a word to the wise in NJ. It is state law that in order to disconnect the water meter, you need to be a licensed plumber. If you get caught you will pay a big fine.

Great point- most P&P vendors know little to nothing about local codes or laws. Just another reason you should be getting more than $50 if you know what you're doing...

In NJ there is a notice on the meter not to tamper with it, the nationals will accept a zip tie on the main water valve. I never remove meters.

New york law also u can not disconnect meter but i always see it disconnected

This is just a bad idea.


A much safer bet would be pulling the house side main line and capping the water meter.

In a lot of locales, it is illegal to do anything to the water lines unless you are a licensed plumber. That includes removing lines from the water meter, even if it is house-side.

I must say up front im a wint junkie..when wints and grass combine in Oct im on it like white in rice.

But you had better not touch a water meter, in Charleston all the meters are covered with water, at least a ft deep. Because is below sea level. Cant read a nare one i say.