Gator G6 blades - REO Property Preservation Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Gator G6 blades

Anyone using Oregon gator g6 blades? Need new blades for my Ferris 61" ztr. Any issues with high grass? 25hp kohler enough power?
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 09:16 PM
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they are ok. 25 hp should be enough power. I had mixed results with them. On my residential accounts they work awesome. they mulch great. On PP lawns that are over grown they work so-so. They are very heavy and tough but you loose alot of blade speed so you have to go slower,
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 10:29 PM
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I run them on my john deere 757`s and they work good! as already said you have go slow in taller grass!
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 10:32 PM
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They work on my JD 777.

You can sure tell the difference between them and the low lift blades.
The low lift won't discharge high/ thick grass and bog down the mower.

Professionals are people who can do their job when they don't feel like it.
Amateurs are people that can't do their job even when they do feel like it.

Last edited by BPWY; 06-17-2013 at 10:34 PM.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 12:31 AM
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I love them. They do not bend or tear when I run over rebar. Not that I do that on purpose. It just seems if I am mowing really tall grass there will be a chunk of steel in it I missed.

They last longer than OEM for me. We have lots of sand here and the lifts on OEMs do not last long at all. Gators are 1/4" thick so the lifts last longer.

Once the lifts are mostly gone we cut them off and weld a piece of 1/4" thick well pipe on to make new lifts. It doubles the life of the blades for us because we generally have a lot of blade left we can sharpen when the lifts are worn off.

I do not recommend you do this unless you are a good welder and you are willing to balance the blades after you weld on the new lifts. Doing it wrong or rushing it can ruin your equipment or get someone hurt or both.

Our next experiment is to get a hold of some 100,000+ PSI welding rods and build up the cutting edge to see if it will hold an edge longer.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies.....I'm definitely going to pick a set up.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 08:30 AM
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Another benefit is they chop the grass up more than standard blades.
So the cut grass falls into the carpet sooner and out of sight.

Professionals are people who can do their job when they don't feel like it.
Amateurs are people that can't do their job even when they do feel like it.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Just picked a set up .They're mean looking. Going to get on tonight and take them for s spin tomorrow. Is it possible to undersize my blade pullies to gain blade speed or do they need to dpin slow?
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPWY View Post
They work on my JD 777.

You can sure tell the difference between them and the low lift blades.
The low lift won't discharge high/ thick grass and bog down the mower.
Paul, have you ever tried running mulching type blades on your Walker?

Iíve already told you more than I know.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by npm View Post
Just picked a set up .They're mean looking. Going to get on tonight and take them for s spin tomorrow. Is it possible to undersize my blade pullies to gain blade speed or do they need to dpin slow?
From my old days at Deere, I'd be a little careful jumping the tip speed. If memory serves, 18,000 was the magic number. Anything above that caused additional spindle/bearing wear without improving the performance. I can't speak for a Ferris though.

Make sure you keep everyting balanced.



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