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What a joke

23K views 68 replies 12 participants last post by  SagesServices 
#1 ·
So for chits and giggles I purchased a 32" homeowner grade zero turn last week. I "thought" it would speed up the process on some of these private party lawns I have, and quite frankly I was getting sick and tired of using the 33" walk behind.
Needless to say, this little turd is going in the shed and come spring will be sold to the highest offer.

If only a quality company made a nice 30-32" commercial grade ztr. I know I've seen 36"s but they just don't quite squeeze through those 36" chain link gates.
This winter I'm on the hunt for a stand on, not because I need one but because I want one.
 
#4 ·
These are owner occupied, little old ladies for the most part. I really don't think Gma is gonna appreciate me cobbling her fence together every time I come over to mow.
I have followed behind those you speak of in regards to ripping sections of fencing out. I always appreciated that, saves me the hassle of having to untrailer the WB.
 
#5 ·
I am not a hack but I will unscrew a section of fence and lay it aside.

Even do it at a residential I mow with a good sized back yard.
The home owners were happy to see how easy it is because they weren't sure how they were
going to get a mini X in the side gate thats 42''. They've gotta dig up a sewer line or some thing in the back.
 
#6 ·
I imagine you reinstall the panel when your finished. I'm talking about hacks. We have find panels laying on the ground in side yards, busted up from kids jumping on them, or sawdust all over the ground from where they cut the posts. You have to call that crap in or your the last known suspect at the property and become liable. And we have never recieved an approval to make the repairs.
 
#7 ·
Yeah I put them back and no I've never cut posts to get in.
I've never even thought of that.
 
#8 ·
I'll slide chain link to the side on a repo as my smallest mower is a 48" and we have some that have 1/4+ acre back yards. Just secure it with a zip tie when i'm done and cut the zip tie the next cycle. Had one last year on such a tight lot i had to roll a push mower through the living room!!!
 
#9 ·
I've done that as well, sometimes you gotta just improvise. It's the 1/2+ acre rear yards that even a 33" WB won't fit through a gate on that get me irked. That's when I politely ask the homeowner if they are interested in a slightly more accessible gate. If it's a repo...I improvise.
I remember one property that was on a very large hill. Rear yard at the highest elevation was probably 14' above grade, it was tiered with timbers for retaining walls. No possible way to get any kind of mower up to the top level, after a discussion with the broker a decision was made that it just had to be some sort of invasive grass up there that needed to be poisoned immediately (her idea not mine). Ya gotta appreciate the brokers that actually GET IT.
 
#10 ·
LOL, yep, years ago we had a condo with about 3' between structures. Two guys had to carry a push mower thru the front door and out the rear slider. Then went back to pick the grass off the carpet after they were done. I'm sure that was a hoot with the neighbors!
 
#11 ·
I had a condo in Loveland CO for a summer that had a stamp sized front/rear yard.

I trimmed the whole thing with the weed eater and carried it thru the house.
No other access to the back yard except helicopter and ropes.
 
#15 ·
That makes it a lot newer than both of mine combined.




21k?????? dang dude, where you been?


Truckin all over the US sight seeing?
 
#18 ·
That's almost all just local driving, well 4 counties, only road trip was 900 miles round trip.
A friend of mine pulls a Hendricks Motorsports backup NASCAR around to different events & when he saw how many miles I was on track to clock this year, he said that was more than he drives in a year!
 
#23 ·
12 year old truck worth around $10k pulling a trailer of equipment that if I were to loose the entire trailer and contents would cost over $32,000 to replace with new equipment.
 
#31 ·
I just bought a '05 F250 6.0L diesel 4x4, 79k miles.

We now use:
2010 F150 2WD 33k miles
2005 F250 diesel 4x4 79k miles
1999 Chevy 2500 2WD 160k miles(2k on new engine)
1997 Ford Expedition 4x4 150k miles
2003 Kia Optima 150k miles (for the occasional out of the way bid, routine maids, inspections, etc., can't beat 30 MPG)
 
#34 ·
Good luck Swift. My 6.0 laid down too many times to count. I went back to a 7.3 2 years ago. Propprespro dumped his 05 last year and it was ready to eat another set of injectors at around 120K if i remember right. Don't know ANYONE who is very happy with them. They are a boat anchor......
 
#35 ·
Yuuuup!
I bought it brandy new in 2005 and put nearly 120K on it by last fall.
Partial list of replaced items:
2 Short blocks, FICM, EGR Cooler, numerous sensors, numerous injectors. . . .
I really liked that truck but I don't miss it at all! Does that make sense?
 
#37 ·
My first diesel. So far not real thrilled with it, but haven't pulled much yet. Too damn loud. Ha ha. I got it for $14.7k which seemed to be a pretty good deal at least. It's an extended cab. I like my '10 F150 gas, drives nice, quiet, we pull an 18' trailer with it and it pulls great.

I had an '08 F250 diesel with 72k miles all picked out, crew cab i believe, $14.3k, was in a tornado so had some body damage, but nothing to affect it's driveability. Bank wouldn't loan on it.

What did you guys get for MPG on the 6.0? I just got it last Friday, drove about 120 miles Saturday, probably 80% interstate, no trailer. I got 13 MPG. I expected better.
 
#38 ·
Ouch, shoulda consulted us first.


I get 12 and 13 pulling my 4' expanded metal sides with 5' tailgate lawn equipment trailer.
18.5 on the open road. This is with my 7.3L
I'm afraid that 13 is around where you'll be for mileage.


I got my 2000 7.3L with 96,500 miles for $10,500.
Its really tough to find a 7.3 under 100,000 miles.

But if you think the 6.0 is loud you'd not like a 7.3 either.
 
#41 ·
I think you'll be pretty impressed with how it pulls. The 6.0 performs well in my opinion, it just has some design flaws.
I was getting 15.5 mpg not pulling pretty consistently with mine and 12-13 pulling. Best I ever did was 17.1 on one leg of a 2k road trip to Southern California.
There are ways to "fix" the inherent problems with that motor to make it more reliable. If you go that route, it should run about $4-5k.
Good luck.
 
#40 ·
avoid the six 0

the 97 - 99 SD ford diesel is the truck to use we run one with a banks 6 gun in super economy we get about 22 mpg on the highway empty, 20 mpg with 20 foot box trailer weight makes no real difference to the truck we have tipped the scales at 19k ( dont tell DOT ) turn the dial the other way we can push out enough tire smoke and diesel to kill every mosquito and flying insect within one square mile and beat the fast and furious types red light to red light
the weak points
the auto trans isnt enough enough we have the six speed
if it plowed or was used as a plow truck the front end will need work
the bed stays good the mounts underneath rot out
12 quart oil change
injectors are pricey ( we are still running the originals )
oil pans rot and you have to pull motor to change ( ours is still original we used a ceramic coating )



99 f250 SD PS
479 k
6 speed manual


repairs to date
ball joints self installed 200
fuel bowl bleeder valve self installed 50
drive shaft rebuild transmatic 200
rear yoke self installed 50
plug in water heater self installed 120 ( shes cold hearted in the winter )

any 7.3 powered vehicle is a buy it now

she is getting a bit smoky now but for the amount of work it has done the 15k price used w 150 k on the clock was a no brainer

its used to pull a 12 foot garden trailer , 2 horse trailer, a 20 foot box trailer
 
#45 ·
On the subject of the 6.0**** engine............... over at plowsite.com there are a couple members that have had good luck with their engines will savage any body that speaks ill of the engine.
Never mind that they are in a huge minority.
 
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